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TEDx Coconut Grove

Today is the long-awaited TEDx conference in Coconut Grove (for those of you who don't know, Coconut Grove is a subset of Miami). It will be running from noon to 9pm at the Ransom Everglades High School, which is one of the oldest standing HS campuses in Miami - beautiful campus; beautiful auditorium. Read more about it here: TEDxCoconutGrove. I'll be speaking in the second set which runs from 2pm-4pm. My talk will be about my journey to becoming the USA Memory Champion and how I was able to improve my brain health with some simple and easy memory techniques. Should be fun! I did my run through on stage last Sunday and the whole set up looked awesome and the people running the whole thing were doing a smashing job.

My hope is that the talk becomes viral and eventually gets posted on the main TED.com website :) Fingers crossed.

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Novartis, Quito

September is World Alzheimer's Month. Around the world, 35 million people and their families are affected by dementia. Think about that... Spread the word. Wear purple. Make a donation. Value your own mind and treat it with the respect it deserves.

I'm off this week to do a whirlwind of events. First up, Ecuador to do a few presentations on memory and Alzheimer's prevention. The events are hosted by Novartis, which if you aren't familiar, is the pharmaceutical company that develops the Exelon patch. The Exelon patch is a transdermal patch that is currently the only FDA approved treatment for symptoms of dementia for people with mild to moderate Alzheimer's or Parkinson's. I'll be speaking to the folks at the Novartis HQ, then to students at the Universidad de San Francisco de Quito, and then to the media! It'll be about how to go about improving your memory and the steps you can take to maintain a healthy brain (check out the sweet flyer they made of my face!).

Next, I'll be in New Orleans for the big AARP convention working closely with life'sDHA, a DHA Omega-3 algae supplement company that I work for. That should be fun, as I'll be at their booth doing demos and giving tips on memory every hour on the hour.

After that, possibly LA to tape a show. We'll see if that pans out.....if not, I'll be back in Miami early to start prepping for my TEDx talk the following week. PHEW.

That's all....Oh wait HEY, did you know I'm climbing Everest next March-June? Pleas consider making a donation and support the cause: I WANT TO DONATE!!!

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How To Memorize Poetry

You either love it or hate it. Poetry is one of those things that if you love it, it can be pretty easy to go about memorizing. But if you hate it, or just don't connect with a particular piece, it can be downright nasty. Your whole life you've probably approached memorizing poetry by just repeating lines and phrases over and over and over and over and over (and over!) again until it sticks. That definitely works but a). it's extremely inefficient and b). it'll make you want to gouge your eyes out from boredom. Memory techniques are the way to go. Don't believe me? Ask Ed Cooke, UK memory grandmaster. He used them to memorize massive portions of the epic poem "Paradise Lost," a monster of a poem that has 10,000+ individual lines of verse. Ouch. I've also used the same techniques to memorize 50 line poems in 15 minutes (in competition), some easy and fun, some abstract and boring.

There are a few ways to go about memorizing text. The first, is to do it rotely - by pure repetition. If you have the time and you enjoy torture, this is the method for you. But I dont recommend it at all. Because....torture is not fun. It's torture.

The second approach is to use a journey or memory palace to store pieces of the text. Once you've wisened up and decided to use this approach, there's a bit of personal preference that comes into play: how much information should I store at each loci? Each and every word? Groups of words? Lines? Verses? Key words and topics here and there? Opinions may differ given that some people are better at remembering different amounts of things. For this blog post I'm going to share my personal preferences since it has allowed me to be pretty successful at it - I tied the USA record for memorizing the most lines of a poem this past year (given the fact that I actually hate memorizing poetry, text, or lyrics, I'd say that's pretty good; check out my graded papers below).

The first thing you need to do is figure out where you want to store the poem in your mind. That will depend on what you plan to do with the poem once it's memorized. Is it for a school assignment (once it's performed it can be forgotten) or is it for long term use (you want to remember it forever)? If you want to remember it forever I suggest creating a new journey specifically for storing this one poem; a journey that you well never re-use for anything else. If it's something you don't plan on keeping for longer than you have to, you can just use any journey that you have in your arsenal. For those of you who don't know, a journey is any familiar place that you can picture in your mind. These journeys are made up of anchor points or distinct "stops" along a specific path around the journey. The size of your journey (how many anchor points) that you decide to use should depend on the length of the poem and how you plan on compressing groups of words into images. We'll talk about that more later.

I'm going to use a stanza from Shell Silverstein's "One Inch Tall" poem because it's fun and easy to visualize. And that's just the thing...if you're memorizing a poem that you connect with and is easy to understand and picture, then the less images-for-words you need, maybe even just one image per line or half-line. The more abstract the poem gets, the more images-for-words you'll need since larger phrases of words will be more complex to visualize -- you'll need to break it down. Again, this is my approach - me being someone who doesn't find much beauty in lyrical words (I prefer music....sorry!).

So that we're all on the same page, let's all use the same journey to memorize the first few lines of this poem. Our journey will be a path through America. Starting in Miami, then DC, Philly, NYC, Boston, Chicago, Denver, San Fran, LA, Honolulu. All iconic US cities (with easy to picture "sceneries", right? Miami - beach, DC - the White House, Philly - the Liberty Bell, NYC - the Empire State Building, Boston - a harbor, Chicago - the Sears Tower, Denver - some mountains, San Fran - Lumbard Street, LA - the Hollywood sign, and Honolulu - a volcano). You can remember the journey's path because it's just up the east coast, then across to the west. Got it? GOOD.

Here's the first stanza of the poem:

If you were only one inch tall, you'd ride a worm to school. The teardrop of a crying ant would be your swimming pool. A crumb of cake would be a feast And last you seven days at least, A flea would be a frightening beast If you were one inch tall.

First things first. Re-read the stanza. Dive into it and imagine it being the story of your life. Really try to visualize it. As you read across the words, imagine a movie playing simultaneously in your mind displaying it all. This is what I always do first. It helps me build a basis for what the poem is about and it helps me figure out the structure of the lines, meter, and rhyming scheme. Next, start coming up with images for the words and storing along your journey.

In this particular poem, the lines are kind of long, so I'm going to split them in half. The first thing we want to memorize is:

"If you were only one inch tall,"

We are standing in Miami on the beach (our first anchor point) and we need to picture this phrase happening there. Easy. Actually picture yourself on the beach as if you were only one inch tall! That will only give you the gist of the phrase, so you might add an image for "if," to get deeper into the specific wording. When I see the word if, I imagine the Chateaux d'If from the Count of Monte Cristo movie. So, plop goes the Chateaux d'If on Miami Beach and I am only one inch tall in comparison. To remember the word "only" I might put emphasis on the fact that I am the ONLY person on the beach, no one else in sight. One thing to take note of is the subject of the poem: you. Everything is about you. You just need to be aware of that. If you were only one inch tall. What about the comma? I have pre-set actions for all punctuation. That way, when I see a punctuation mark I immediately have an image for it to throw into the mix. A comma is the action of falling, a period is any type of bloody violence, a semi-colon is the action of mopping the floor, etc. So to remember that there was a comma at the end of the phrase, I would picture my small one inch self falling over next to the Chateaux. Done. Next.

"you'd ride a worm to school."

I'm in DC by the White House (second anchor point). For this, I'm going to picture myself riding a worm up to the White House (which kinda looks like a super fancy school). Period at the end? I need to add violence there. Maybe a sniper takes me out as I approach the front door of the White House.

"The teardrop of a crying ant"

Now at the Liberty Bell, imagine a massive teardrop coming from a crying ant. Simple enough.

"would be your swimming pool."

At the Empire State Building, picture a wooden bee in a swimming pool. Why a wooden bee? To help you remember "would be." It's not the same spelling but it will remind you enough of what it is properly....and it's weird and random, exactly the kind of thing you remember best.

"A crumb of cake would be a feast"

Sometimes you feel confident and you go for a whole line in one image. Imagine being in a harbor (Boston), and picture a crumb of cake being feasted upon by that same wooden bee.

"And last you seven days at least,"

Now at the Sears Tower, we have a pretty difficult line to imagine. So we might want to split it in half.

"And last you"

For "And" and "Or" I have preset images. "And" is a circle and "Or" is a square. I'm at the Sear's Tower standing on a circular platform (representing the "and") and I'm last in line to get into the building, I'm singing "Supaman dat hoe" - hence the "YOUUUUUU". That may not make sense to you, but that's okay. Come up with your own image for "you"....or just be aware that the poem is about you; that might be all you need.

"seven days at least,"

On a mountain in Denver, I'm gonna imagine I have to camp 7 days out in the wilderness AT LEAST, then I fall down the mountain (that's the comma).

"A flea would be a frightening beast"

At Lumbard Street, the bassist from Red Hot Chilli Peppers (his name is Flea) is being stung by that wooden be and he's screaming "a frightening beast!!!" as he runs down the famous winding road.

"If you were one inch tall."

Down to the Hollywood sign in LA, same line as the first, minus the "only" word. Picture the exact same thing as you stand under the sign. Don't forget the period!

Voila. We didn't even need to go to Honolulu! Now try, without scrolling up, to see if you remember all of the images (they don't have to be exact, just roughly what was happening at each anchor point). Some may have been easier to remember the exact words, others may have been difficult (but maybe you still remembered the images). Don't worry. That's okay. Go through it again if you must. The crucial part for me once I've done the encoding of words to images, is to write it down on paper. For some reason, writing it down at this point adds a different dimension of visualization that helps with recall. As I write it down from memory, I'll keep the poem next to me for viewing but I will only use it as a seldom crutch in case I encounter any gaps. Once I've written it down once or twice, the poem is cemented into my mind.

Everyone is different, so experiment a little bit to see what works best for you - memorizing smaller or larger pieces, memorizing key words here and there and then mixing it with a bit of rote repetition, whatever!

Making it verbally fluid from that point on isn't always as easy. Remember, these techniques get information into your memory fast, but doesn't necessarily make the access instantaneous....at least not at first. Once you have it in your brain though, the nice thing is that you can review it as often as you want (just mentally travel through the US!). To make the reciting seamless is where the real practice comes in. You'll have to take what you just stored in your mind and convert into muscle memory. This is something that just takes repetition. As you continue to perform your poem out loud, it will eventually become a single fluid thought, and you'll always have the basic rubrique in your mind in case you stumble.

There you go. That's how the USA Memory Champion memorizes poetry. BAM.

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Failed Memory System

I'm teaching a couple sections of a Java programming lab this semester at the University of Miami (where I did my Masters a couple of years ago) and they just re-activated my account from back then. The picture below was sitting on my desktop. It made me laugh because it was an idea I had for a 4-card memory system way back when. The idea was to do Person, Action, Object, Color. Person was the first card, Action was the second, third and fourth card (just the number value) was an Object, then I painted the whole mental scene with a color that was represented by the suit pair combination of those same two cards. Here are what each pair represented:

FYI, that system failed. I never got faster than 55 seconds for a deck of cards with it, so I dropped it. I think it was because I could never really get the hang of visualizing the colors well in my mind. I was pretty annoyed for a good while after because I thought I had discovered an amazing system that was failproof, but apparently I was wrong.

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Summer Crush Games

This past weekend I attended the second annual Summer Crush Crossfit Games, which is a Crossfit competition second in size to the Crossfit Games Final. I've been doing Crossfit since early February to train for my Everest climb, but this was my first opportunity to really see what these competitions are about and to see some of the top athletes perform. I also got a chance to support the Crossfit box I work out at, Crossfit Vida. We did pretty darn good. The competition was awesome. It totally inspired me to push myself even harder in everything I do. Some of the things I saw people do were just ridiculous; we're talking some of the fittest people on the planet here, lifting seriously heavy weights, moving their bodies in tiring motions, over and over again - just amazing. What amazed me the most was seeing these super fit guys competing but then seeing some of them look like they were getting completely wrecked by the workout. I just couldn't imagine how hard they must have been working to feel like that. Second amazing thing was watching the women; they kill it just as bad as the guys.

I also got the opportunity to briefly meet this young 13-year old girl named Kate Foster. She's a crossfiter (and gymnast) who made a mind-blowing come back after battling Leukemia. She lost a leg in the process though... Despite that, she still does crossfit, like a badass. I love seeing people succeed after having overcome life-threatening situations. What's more, she's doing things that people told her she would never be able to do again. Please watch the video below to see her contagiously positive attitude towards life. My favorite line is her saying "I'll show you I can." What an inspiration; she totally made my weekend.

I'm itching to do a more extensive blog post about Crossfit for those who aren't convinced or who don't know much about it. It has changed my life and has even improved my memory. More on that later. Pics below:

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Alpamayo Video Up!

Finally put together all the pieces. Here is a video from my recent climb. I didn"t summit, hence the lack of summit shots on Alpamayo. But again, it"s all about the journey and the memories. Enjoy...

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Recovery

Sometimes it can take a while for the body to recover from a climb. When I got back from Everest in June of "11 for example, I didn"t get back to normal until at least a month after. It took a huge toll on my body in every way imaginable. This time around, even though I was only gone for about two weeks, I"m still trying to get back to normal. It doesn"t help that I got an intestinal infection (which I"m still fighting off, believe it or not). Anyways, I"m on track....it"s just a slow process. I started my Crossfit training again a few days ago. It"s amazing to see how my strength has diminished and how my stamina and cardio has gotten so bad. I mean, it"s not bad at all, just worse than before my trip.

Part of my recovery process is figuring out the goals I want to build up to next. Obviously Everest/Lhotse 2013 is the big one on the list. I have 7 months to prepare. I"ve been training hard since this past February (with a small dip this month because of my health), but will be pounding it online casino out even harder for the next 7 months. In 2011, I trained hard for Everest only starting 6 months in advance. I have no doubt that this time around I"ll be way stronger and more prepared. Also, with having discovered Crossfit I honestly don"t think there is any better way to train for the climb. When I was feeling healthy on Alpamayo I was zooming up the mountain and barely breathing hard. It was pretty incredible. All those squats payed off, haha.

Aside from physical goals, there are the mental goals. I was initially planning on entering numerous memory competitions around the world (UK, German, Swedish Memory Championships), but decided to focus on fewer, namely the World Memory Championships in London this December and the USA Memory Championships in NYC next March.

The goal at the WMC is to gain Grandmaster of Memory status (more on that another time, but it"s a real title....and a big one) and to try and break the top-10 rankings. I can definitely do it, I just need to perform solidly in competition. Then the USA competition....my goal there is to win it for a 3rd time, to become the 3rd person to win 3 times in a row (Scott Hagwood and Tatiano Cooley from the early days are the other two people). If I win, I have a feeling that it might be my last competition as a competitor. I think I"d prefer to just work on things from the other side of the competitors after that.

Anyways, that"s all for now. Alpamayo pics are up HERE!

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Alpamayo Climb Report

I'm back! 12-lbs lighter, sunburnt, heavily disheveled, and attempting to return to the swing of things (that means sleeping well, relaxing on the beach, and stuffing my face with copious amounts of food...mostly junk food....in an attempt to recover). Here is the summary of my trip: The first few days of my 2-week expedition were an absolute slog. A 6-hour flight to Lima, followed immediately by an ungodly 8-hour bus ride to Huaraz, a small city that rests at the base of many of Peru's massive peaks. Exhausting. The drive from Lima all the way up to Huaraz was a sight to see though. With the Pacific Ocean mostly on our left side, the countryside changed from city, to complete desert and sand dunes, to oasis, to rocky formations, to finally while heading inland, massive snow-capped mountains. Absolutely stunning. Too bad a lot of the scenery was spoiled by "The Glee Movie" which was blaring throughout the bus as we traveled (followed by 4 other pitiful movies). The only saving grace was watching Liam Neeson in "Taken." Good movie.

Settling into Huaraz late Thursday evening, I met up and had dinner with my teammates, Charlie and Alisha. Friday we had an expedition debreifing with the folks at Skyline Adventures and then went on a 3-hour hike up to 11,500 ft just on the outskirts of the city with our guide, Nacho (an Ecuadorian Thrash metal band bass player/mountain climber). Hes awesome. Mostly because his metal band is called Thrashformers. The following day we went out of the city to the trailhead of Chalup, a 17,500 ft peak with a sweet glacial lagoon part-way up.

Sunday we woke up at 2:30am to drive up to the trailhead of Huarapasca, another 17,500 footer peak. This climb was awesome. Absolutely no one in sight but us, in the middle of nowhere, with not a village in sight. Pretty cool to have the whole peak to ourselves. The climb started with a rock scramble climb and then once we met the glacier, it was all pretty much vertical climbing, laying down one pitch after the other. After about 5 pitches, we reached a small crater which lead up to the final 2 pitches over onto the corniced summit. Reminded me of the classic Chopicalqui summit a bit. Overall, a great climb with a super satisfying summit and view. We headed back to Huaraz for some last minute packing and our last opportunity to stuff our faces with some "civilized" food before the trip. This would prove to be a very bad move. I had a super sketchy Lomo Saltado for dinner (meat and onions with rice and papas fritas). Within hours I was on the toilet, Alien-style.

The next morning our expedition began. For me it began with a pretty wretched stomach parasite living in me. We drove 2 hours out to a very small and basic village called Cashapampa, the gateway to the Santa Cruz Valley. Again, stunning. I felt so privileged to be in the presence of some of the mountains surrounding me. I felt like I was in some candy-land, mountain climber's dreamland. Through a deep ravine in the mountainous landscape we slipped through and began our hike up to our first camp. The majority of the trek was steep switchbacks up scree and rock, very reminiscent of the upper parts of the Khumbu Valley on Everest.

We reached our first camp mid-afternoon which was at about 3800m above sea level, just as I was struggling to keep my intestines from exploding. Rested a bit, had a phenomenal dinner prepared by our awesome cook, and got some much needed rest (our cook was a professionally trained mountaineering cook BTW. They apparently have schools for that in Peru...he would sprinkle parsley on our meals like he was Emeril). The next day had little elevation gain, but took us through an expansive, out-of-place desert basin before sending us up climbing some more switch backs to Base Camp (4300m). It would be from here onwards that our donkeys would stop helping us carry food and equipment. From here it really started to feel like we were truly in the mountains, in another world. The landscape was so rugged and immense, with deafening, snow-capped peaks jutting out from all corners into the sky. One peak in particular, Artesonraju (the Paramount Pictures mountain) was probably the most beautiful thing I'd ever seen...I would have shed a tear had it not been for the fact that I did not shed a tear.

Up until this point my acclimatization was going fine. In fact, I felt freaking strong as hell. I was convinced that my Crossfit training had paid off (still convinced, actually). The only thing was when I ate, my stomach couldn't hold on to it. But as soon as it would "pass" I felt great again. I had no fever or pain, so I knew it had to just be an intestinal thing. No biggie.

The next day we climbed up to Morraine Camp from Base Camp. It was mostly a heavily rock-laden slope that fed into the base of the peaks above us (Alpamayo and Quitaraju). I really powered through this climb with my 50lb pack on my back - like a machine. Set up our tents, memorized some cards, ate dinner and slept/rested the rest of the night crammed in our 3-person tent. Up at 8am the next day we packed up and started our glacier traverse. A pretty easy, steady glacier hike with crampons and ropes tied between us, we made it to the base of the shoulder of Alpamayo. To get to High Camp involved ice climbing up over the shoulder of the peak itself and back down the other side. Pretty tough with a pack on, but we made it.

High Camp (5500m) was breathetaking. Both Alpamayo and Quitaraju were in sight (with some low-hanging clouds occasionally obscuring the summit). Within an hour of me arriving though, altitude sickness hit my like a dump truck. I have never experienced altitude sickness throughout my whole mountaineering career, but I knew what it was once it hit me: a splitting headache, deafening nausea, no appetite, and my even more-so aggravated stomach situation. I was paralyzed in my tent feeling like crap. I tried eating dinner, but eventually had to let the team know that if I wasn't feeling better by the next day that I'd have to go back down to Base Camp. I knew this wasn't normal for my body. I also knew that it was mostly due to the fact that my stomach was fighting something in my stomach. Which in return, wasn't allowing it to acclimatize as I wanted it to.

The next day, I felt even worse. So down it was for me. Just as I was packing I lost all control of my bowels, which was just another sign of how bad it was becoming. My decision had just been validated x10. I shot back down with our other guide Michel, making it back down in a quick 2-hours. Bought a coke from a small hut at Base Camp and chugged it like a mad man. They should seriously make Coke commercials out of mountaineers coming down from altitude and chugging a Coke. You won't find a more authentic sounding refreshing "AHHHH." No joke.

Within hours of being down, I immediately felt better. This is the common way of things for climbers. You might ask, why didn't you go back up if you felt better? Well, it's not that simple. My stomach still had to recover, and just because I felt better at lower altitude didn't mean that I was suddenly acclimatized. So, I rested and ate while the team went for the summit that same evening (they summited!).

The next day Michel and I raced down to Cashapampa and caught a car ride back to Huaraz where I was able to shower and ate all the food I wanted. The team followed just a day and a half behind.

Overall, the trip was amazing. It was such an amazing place to visit and climb in. I'm happy with my decision to forfeit Alpamayo's summit and happy that I always seem to have the good sense to know when my body is not in good shape. I always have to remember that the summit is just a singular point, not the sole purpose of the climb. It's the journey to and from that point that's really what all this climbing is about. And even beyond that, the point is to climb for memory, not to summit for memory. That being said, bring on the summit of Mt. Everest! I've got 8 months to finish my preparation. In the meantime, I'm gonna spend the next few days re-building some important memories, like how good this pizza tastes.

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Back Home. Updates soon.

I'm back home. Feeling 100% healthy again. For those that don't know, I was super strong until I hit high camp on Alpamayo and got pretty heavy altitude sickness. The whole expedition I was also fighting a stomach bug as well, which just exacerbated my whole situation at altitude, making things exponentially worse. So I didn't summit.

Great trip though with some pretty rad climbing. More details coming soon....and pics. Hell yeah.

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Alpamayo! Leaving Today.

First of all, a quick update on the event the other day. We had 93 people show up for one heck of a good time playing trivia. We managed to raise nearly $4000! Amazing! Thank you all to those who came and to those who helped organize the event. Looks like it might become a yearly thing... Secondly, Alpamayo. I leave for Peru this afternoon where I'll be climbing in the Cordillera Blanca for 2 weeks, climbing this awe-inspiring peak. This is all training for Everest 2013. I'm so stoked to get back in the mountains to refresh, see how my crossfit training has improved my fitness, and also to do some more memory tests at altitude. All exciting stuff! Stay tuned, I'll be posting as much as I can from down there.

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Pay It Forward Event 2012

Just a reminder to all those who live in the DC area. Tonight is the Pay It Forward Climb For Memory event. Weil, Gotshal, & Manges LLP are hosting it at Hill Country. Should be a fun event, with a trivia night being the main gig. Prizes, raffles, and a little memory show from the Memory Champ himself....oh and happy hour price drinks and food.

Come out and support CFM!

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How To Make An Overnight Stay In An Airport Memorable

...or anywhere, for that matter. The other day, I found myself stuck in Dallas/Fort Worth International Airport, having missed my connecting flight back to Miami late at night. It was the last Miami flight out that day so I had to reschedule the flight to the god-forsaken time of 5:45am the next morning. Great. American Airlines kindly offered my a discounted rate of $50 for a night's stay in the lavish Super-8 Motel. I was extremely tempted, but figured sleeping in an airport terminal might be significantly more cozy and comfortable.

I knew it was gonna be a long night. Being 6'6", sleeping anywhere that isn't a large bed is tough. They promised me cots would be set up around the airport, but I knew they'd be normal size cots, not mega-cots designed for giants. Either way, I knew I had some time to kill. I made my way to terminal D on the Skyline Tram and noticed how empty and dead everything was. I got in the tram completely by myself and felt strangely alone. That's never happened to me anywhere, in any airport. So I did a cartwheel. I thought, I need to document this. So I spent most of the night and early morning taking photos in the eerily empty airport terminal. It was pretty fun. All I needed was my iPhone, a self-timer app, and Instagram. BOOM. The TSA probably just added me to the no-fly list.

Needless to say, that whole stay was memorable. Why? Because it was totally absurd. Had it been any regular crappy overnight stay in an airport, it would have been forgotten pretty quickly. But that fact that I spent so much time doing weird and notable stuff, while also documenting it on camera, made it that much more memorable.

So how do you make your own trips, vacations, dates, whatever, memorable? Try this:

1. Keep things fresh and do as much as you can. Think outside the box and be adventurous. Don't lame out and stay in and watch TV, go out and do things. Not only will this make your trip memorable, but it will also make it feel longer upon reflection. Know that feeling when you say "time flies when you're having fun"? It's actually not true, time flies when you do nothing, at least it seems so when you try to recall the memory of it. Time stretches when you do a lot of different stuff.

2. Document it somehow. Take pictures, film it on a GoPro, take little souvenirs from each place, draw it. The extra external memory of a place will help cement it in your brain. Plus, you can always look back through them to remind you of your trip.

3. Review it. This is a neat piece of advice I learned from a friend a while back. When your vacation is over, mentally review the whole trip. You don't need to remember all the details, just the highlights and as best as you can, in order. Do this frequently after the trip and then every once in a while thereafter. Reviewing helps cement anything into your long term memory. The same works for actual experience memory.

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World Memory Championships 2012

WMC 2012 is in.....drumroll, please.......er, London? After all that talk of potentially being in Lithuania, Latvia, Malaysia, China, outer space even....it comes back to London. No big deal really; I'm totally fine with it. It makes the whole thing a lot easier to get to, reliable, and less subject to sudden change. Will there be any prize money? Who knows. Probably not. If they decided to stay in London it probably means that there's no big sponsor. Either way, I'm in. I was planning to compete in the UK Championships at the end of August, but maybe I'll just wait till the WMCs since it's in the same place. My goal at this point is one thing and one thing only....to become a Grandmaster.

To become a Grandmaster of Memory one needs memorize a deck of cards in under 2 minutes (easy peasy), 10 decks of cards in an hour (I've done 9 in 30 minutes), and 1000 digits in an hour (I've done 880 digits in 30 minutes). Should be doable. Once I have that, I'll be happy. There's only one other American who has that title (Scott Hagwood) so it would be cool to be the second (David Thomas doesn't count).

Oh, the dates are December 14-16.

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All Hail King James

2012 NBA Champions = Miami Heat. 2012 NBA MVP = Lebron James. 2x NBA Champ = Dwyane Wade. 7-three pointers = Mike Miller. Velociraptor scream = Bosh. All memorable stuff.

This whole season was memorable. The playoffs were even more memorable. The finals were just absolutely, impossibly unforgettably, memorable. All those things add up to help my memorizing numbers and cards systems that much easier to use....and remember, of course.

2 years ago I set out to expand my 2-digit number system to 3-digits. That meant taking my existing 100 images (00-99) that I knew so well and tacking on 900 more of them to make 1000 total images (000-999). I had no clue where to begin. It just seemed too overwhelming. How would I ever be able to learn a system that massive?

The answer dawned on me when Lebron James and Chris Bosh joined Dwyane Wade on the Miami Heat in the summer of 2010. I knew that I wanted to add all these memorable NBA players to my system somehow because they were all so memorable to me. These were people that I'd basically followed their every move for almost 10 years. At the time, I only had 2 NBA players in my 2-digit number system: 24 was Kobe and Shaq was 34 (because of their jersey numbers).

So I had the ingenious idea of expanding those numbers into categories. All the 24's would become NBA guards and all the 34's would become NBA big men. The preceding digit to the 24 or 34 would use a very loose hybrid between the Dominic and Major phonetic system to help remind me of the image. Basically the following letter-number associations:

1 = t, j, a 2 = b, n 3 = c, m 4 = r, d 5 = e, l, y 6 = s, sh, ch, 7 = g, j, k 8 = h, f, o 9 = n, p, v 0 = (nothing)

I know it looks complicated and random, but I wanted to give myself as much flexibility as possible when coming up with all the images, so I let each digit cover a number of possible letters. I left 024 as the original 2-digit image, i.e. Kobe (034 as Shaq), then started building the nine other 24s (124, 224, 324, etc.) and 34s. Here's what I came up with and the reasons why:

024 = Kobe [original number 24] 124 = Michael Jordan [MJ is the number 1 NBA player in history] 224 = Bosh (Chris) [2 = b = Bosh] 324 = Dwyane Wade [3 is D-wade's number] 424 = UD (Udonis Haslem) [4 = d = uDonis] 524 = Carmello (Anthony) [5 = l = carmeLLo] 624 = Lebron James [6 is Lebron's number] 724 = Jeremy Lin [7 = j = Jeremy] 824 = Tony Parker [8 = o = tOny] 924 = Vince Carter [9 = v = Vince]

034 = Shaquille O' Neil [original number is 34] 134 = Tim Duncan [1 = t = Tim] 234 = Blake Griffin [2 = b = Blake] 334 = Alonzo Mourning [3 = m = Mourning] 434 = Dirk Nowitski [4 = d = Dirk] 534 = Yao Ming [5 = y = Yao] 634 = Stoudamire (Amare) [6 = s = Stoudamire] 734 = Garnett (Kevin) [7 = g = Garnett] 834 = Howard (Dwight) [8 = h = Howard] 934 = Pau Gasol [9 = p = Pau]

Following this idea till the end, I managed to complete all the other 2-digit number categories and come up with all 1000 images. This is the system that led me to set this year's US speed-numbers record of 303 digits in 5 minutes. I am now closing in on 400 digits.

I didn't stop there. I decided to use this idea to expand my card system. For so long I memorized cards individually. Each card was a single image and I would make little 3-card stories to chunk more cards into one image (the PAO system, read more here). After years of practice and training, that system took me to 32 seconds in practice, but no further. I wanted to get faster, and that meant coming up with a more complex card memorizing system. Instead of each card being a single image, I'd have to one-up it by making each pair an image. That's over 2700 images I'd need to create!

Coming up with my 2-card per image system took a monstrous year of hard work to figure out. Basically it works the same way as the numbers. To keep it simple for now (these were the first steps I took when creating the system), I worked with only the number cards (A,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9), no face cards. Each pair of cards would read as the numbers on them. Those would be the 2-digit number (ex. AA = 11, 29 = 29 - it's pretty self-explanatory). The pair of suits would then translate to a digit that I would place before the 2-digit number (just like in the number system) to make the card a 3-digit number. I would basically be taking pairs of cards and turning them into 3-digit numbers - numbers I already had images for because of my numbers system mentioned above. The only problem was that suit pairs have 16 combinations, not 10. So using my 1000 images for all the suit pairs that went up to 10, I came up with the remaining 6 images for each category by coming up with 6 more guards and 6 more big men (for 23 and 34 at least). It also meant coming up with a system for translating suit pairs into a hexadecimal system (that's a number system based on 16 rather than 10, FYI). Here's how it works:

(d = diamond, c = clubs, h = hearts, s = spades)

0 = DD 1 = HH 2 = SS 3 = CC 4 = SD 5 = SH 6 = SC 7 = CD 8 = CH 9 = CS A = DH B = DS C = DC D = HD E = HS F = HC

Why? Because I said so. It's the way I like it (there is SOME rhyme and reason to it, but I'll let you figure that out on your own). Because this Miami Heat season was so memorable, I decided to include everyone from the roster in those additional 6 images for the 24s and 34s. Shane Battier became 2 of Diamonds/4 of Spades (DS suit pair = b = Battier = B24). Mario Chalmers became 2 of Diamonds/4 of Clubs (DC suit pair = c = Chalmers = C24). Mike Miller became 2 of Hearts/4 of Spades (HS suit pair = l = mike miLLer = E24). Joel Anthony became 3 of Diamonds/4 of Hearts (DH suit pair = a = joel Anthony = A34).

Pretty cool, right? Eh.....you're probably thinking this is down-right, impossibly complicated. Well honestly, it is. But once I learned it (and I'm still in the process of fully learning it, mind you) it became second nature. Over time with practice, the cards and numbers become the images themselves and the translation isn't needed anymore. At least remembering the 24s and 34s have just become a lot easier, all thanks to the fact that these guys just became that much more memorable last night.

GO HEAT!

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Brief Hiatus

I"ll be out of town for 10 days, just a heads up. Taking a little breather. I"ll be back the week of the 25th with some memory driven posts and how-to"s. Stay tuned. In NOTICE: THIS IS NOT THE POSTING IN WHICH THE PHRASE APPEARS FOR THE CONTEST TO WIN TICKETS TO SEE JOHN FOERTY AT SANDS BETHLEHEM EVENT CENTER horoscope taurus today is Day 3 of our contest to win fifth-row tickets to see John Fogerty at Sands Bethlehem Event Center. the mean time....get ready for my upcoming climb mid-July in Peru. Serious training for Everest begins then!

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Hershey Is Pretty Sweet

Get it? Hershey...sweet? Yeah, well it's nicknamed the "sweetest place on earth" and I was there this past weekend to meet up with the Hershey High School memory team (they are the 5-time champions of the school portion of the USA Memory Championship and some of their team members even have US records in memory). A few of their students were at the competition last March filming the whole thing and put together a pretty sweet documentary. Okay, I'll stop saying "sweet."

The documentary is called "Recall" and it was edited and directed by Bobby Hummel. It was really well done and most of all, it gave a really cool glimpse into how the Hershey kids prepare for and deal with the competition. It was pretty impressive to see them behind the scenes, to see them in action, but I think what I liked the most is the fact that they never take themselves too seriously. I love that. They work at their craft and just show up at the competition having a blast. If they break some records or end up in the finals while doing it, then swee.....awesome.

I forget to do that sometimes. I take things too seriously. You could see it in my face in the documentary, the whole time I was a nervous wreck and on edge, worrying about this score and that. Yeah I won, but it almost felt like I was winning because I HAD to win. That being said, I'm glad I won, but definitely need to tone it down next year. I'm always pushing myself really hard, which is great, but that can also stifle my creativity, which can then weaken my memory. I'm working on a ridiculous system right now for cards and numbers, and frankly, it looks like it's going to be a nightmare to master. But at the base of it all, it's fun coming up with the stuff. I just need to remember to have fun with it and not to take it too seriously.

Just wanted to give Hershey team a shout-out. It was awesome hanging out with them and it made me wish I was still in high-school (only for a second though, haha).

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End Of The 2012 Everest Season

As the 2012 Everest season comes to an end, teams are leaving Base Camp and heading back down the valley to Lukla where they will await a flight back to Kathmandu, and then ultimately, home. I remember last year, coming back down the valley was such a rich experience for me. Seeing the color green, hearing sounds much more vibrantly, breathing the thicker air, smells - they all came rushing back to me, having been missing from my life for the previous month and a half. The first night's sleep I got in Pheriche at 14,000 ft was incredible. I guess after having slept poorly at 17,500ft+ for weeks on end it finally caught up with me. I remember the prospect of seeing my family and loved ones had me completely over the moon. I can only imagine what climbers are feeling now.

Here is the last video from my series of Everest 2011 videos. I hope you enjoy this one and all of the ones I've posted over the last couple months. Until 2013...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0l-wY_1QmZQ&feature=relmfu

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More Summits!

Things went smoothly last night and there were a good 100+ summits from both sides. No incidents from what I've heard so far, no annoying crowds, and supposedly, perfect weather. On the South Side, Peak Freaks scored 5 client summits and 6 Sherpa summits (FYI, my Sherpa from last year, Phu Tashi, managed to summit for a 2nd time last night....amazing. Twice in one season takes BALLS OF STEEL), Adventure Consultants had 2 clients, 4 Sherpas, Jagged Globe had 6 clients, 4 Sherpas, the Benegas Brothers had 4 clients, 2 Sherpas, and then Kenton Cool's Samsung team made it up with 2 climbers and 1 Sherpa.

I'm sure there might be a few staggered summit attempts over the next few days, but the season is pretty much coming to an end. Teams are heading back down to Base Camp to break down their camps and head down the Valley to Lukla. Then, home.

  • Kenton Cool: with 2 climbers and 1 Sherpa
  • Adventure Consultants: 2 climbers, 4 Sherpas
  • Peak Freaks: 5 climbers, 6 Sherpas
  • Jagged Globe: 6 climbers, 4 Sherpas
  • Benegas Brothers: 4 climbers, 2 Sherpas

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Second Summit Push

Here we go. The second summit window is beginning to open up. By now a lot of teams have already summited, packed up, and left Base Camp. Some teams have even called it quits, being that it was a very difficult season in terms of weather and mountain conditions. On Everest, there really is only a short window of time where people can attempt to summit, where the tip of the mountain isn't being pummeled by the Jet Stream. Once that window passes, monsoon season swoops in and the climbing season is officially over until Fall. The Sherpas remove all the ladders from the mountain on May 31st, so for those who have waited out, this will be their last shot for the year.

Peak Freaks is at Camp 3, and I'm assuming will be heading to the South Col today, where they will push for the summit later tonight. Weather conditions look promising. Also, crowd management should be better since most teams are gone. The mountain has already seen a few hundred summits already, so that should account for a good percentage of people NOT expected high on the mountain this time around. As I'm sure many of you have heard, the reason for a lot of the deaths over the past weekend had to do with the tremendous crowds that were building up (combined with other factors like weather, skill, health, and team organization), so having that aspect removed can make a world of a difference.

I'll keep you posted on any news I hear.

In the meantime, check out a podcast I did recently for Men's Health Magazine where I talk about memory, climbing, and Alzheimer's disease: http://blogs.menshealth.com/podcasts/nelson-dellis/2012/05/23/

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First Wave Summits!

About 60 or so summits from the south side have been confirmed on Everest over the last 48 hours or so. This was the first wave of summit pushes this season. Ueli Steck, the "Swiss Machine" (speed climber) summited without Oxygen (if you don't know who this beast of a guy is, watch him sprint up the Eiger in less than 3 hours HERE - it will blow your mind). An experienced Chilean team of 10 climbers summited as the ropes were being laid down to the summit. Then last night about 45 summits were had between Peak Freaks, IMG, Adventure Consultants, and a couple of other small groups. A second wave was planned to follow but winds picked up and teams were instructed to retreat. The next forecasted push is now supposed to be on May 24/25th or so. News from the north side is a lot more sparse, but from what I hear, they had a good amount of summits in the past 48 hours as well (70 or so). I do know for a fact that legendary guide Phil Crampton and his Altitude Junkies team had 6 summits (plus Sherpas). As always, you can see more detailed info on all this from Alan Arnette's page. Exciting stuff! So cool to hear positive news after all that drama a couple weeks ago! More to come soon!

UPDATE - A few more teams have recently left the South Col and high camp on the north side to try and squeeze in a few more summits before the window closes. Winds are high, as I mentioned before, so we'll see what happens. More news to come!

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